Design Tips for the Disorganized Knitwear Designer

This is a guest post written by designer Lauren Rad of A Bee in the Bonnet.

I read a blog post the other day from the amazing Karie Westermann, where she described in detail her design process. I was so impressed. The amount of planning, attention to detail, and meaning behind each of her patterns is incredible - and, I have to admit, completely foreign to me. 

See, I am not such an organized designer. 

When I'm starting a new design, I like to start with what I think is the most fundamental thing: the yarn. I get a hold of beautiful yarn that I want to make something with, and then I let the yarn decide what it wants to become. This has the benefit of being very flexible and allowing my imagination to make last-minute changes, but it also has some challenges. Here are five tips for working with what I'll generously refer to as the, erm, improvisational approach. 

1. Listen to the yarn. You can't fight the yarn and what it wants to be. Don't try. A fluffy, woolen-spun, aran-weight wool is going to knit up differently from a tidy, worsted-spun, silk-linen blend. If you get into a project and find that the yarn you're using is just not a good fit for the stitches you chose, swap out one or the other - either get new yarn, or pick different stitches. 

2. Get comfortable alternating skeins. One of the hazards you run when flying by the seat of your pants is that occasionally, you misjudge how much yarn you need. That happened to me with the lace edging on the Santa Cruz Shawl. I thought I'd need just two skeins of yarn, but it turned out I needed a third because I decided to increase the width of the edging. It had been months since I bought the original yarn and there was no way I could find more from the same dye lot, so I spent the second half of the edging alternating yarn every other row to make sure the mismatched dye lots didn't show. 

3. Take good notes as you go. It's possible to reconstruct what you did after you finish knitting, but it's so much easier to follow the notes you kept as you were working. It slows you down a bit, I know, but having done things both ways, I can promise you: it's worth the extra effort. This is mostly irrelevant for the designers who write out their entire pattern before they ever start stitching, but we're the sort of folks who wing it here, right?

4. Use lifelines. If you, like me, like to design as you go, you might find yourself ripping back every now and then. That's no big deal if you're not on a deadline, but putting in lifelines can save you from having to go all the way back to the very beginning. 

5. Develop some building blocks. Designing an item completely from scratch every single time can be exhausting, and it opens you up to making mistakes in the pattern-writing process. I like to have a few templates for my most commonly-used designs, and then I can riff off of those templates. That means I generally know how many stitches I like to cast on for a DK-weight sweater, how many for a worsted-weight hat, how many for a fingering-weight sock, and so forth. Since my gauge is pretty consistent, this keeps me from having to swatch for gauge every time I start a new project - and gracious, does this improvisational designer ever hate swatching. 

Hopefully these tips and tricks can save you some grief in your design journey. I've learned from trial and error, and I hope to save you the same! Happy stitching.

(You can find Lauren and her stunning designs on Instagram: @abeeinthebonnet and on her website here.)


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